Washers and dryers are among the most commonly resold appliances, often as a matched pair. That's convenient, but it also means you're judging two machines with very different ways to fail. A washer mostly fails on water: leaks, drainage, worn bearings and bad suspension. A dryer mostly fails on heat and airflow. Check each for its own weak spots, and try to see both running before money changes hands.
The washer
Before it runs
- Photograph the model and serial label. On top-loaders it's often under the lid or on the back; on front-loaders, around the door opening.
- Spin the drum by hand. It should turn smoothly without grinding or a rough feel.
- Push down on the drum or tub. Excessive bouncing on a top-loader points to worn suspension rods.
- On a front-loader, pull back the door boot. Look for tears, mold and items caught in the folds.
- Check the hoses that come with it. Plan to replace them regardless; you don't know how old they are.
While it runs
- Run a short cycle with a towel or two. Listen during the fill, the agitation and especially the final spin.
- A loud roar during spin can mean worn tub bearings, which is often an expensive repair.
- Watch for water on the floor and check that it drains completely at the end.
- Note any error codes on the display.
The dryer
Before it runs
- Pull out the lint screen. A heavily clogged screen and housing say a lot about past care.
- Look at the back panel and power cord or gas connection for scorch marks or damage.
- Confirm whether it's gas or electric and that it matches your hookup. Electric dryers also come with three-prong or four-prong cords.
While it runs
- Run it on high heat for 10 minutes. Open the door and feel the air inside; it should be clearly hot.
- Listen for squealing, thumping or scraping, which can mean worn rollers, idler pulley or belt.
- Confirm the drum stops when the door opens.
Checks for both
- Search each model at the CPSC recall site and on the manufacturer's page. Our guide to checking for recalls walks you through it.
- Ask how old they are, whether they've been repaired, and whether they were used in a garage or indoors.
- Look underneath with a flashlight for rust. Machines from beach-area garages can corrode from salt air.
- Check that the machines have their leveling feet and that the feet screw in and out.
Questions that tell you more than the ad
- Why are they selling? "We're moving on orders" or "we bought a stacked set for the condo" is a good answer. "It just needs a small part" usually isn't.
- How many people used them? A pair that washed for a family of five every day has worked a lot harder than one used by a single person.
- Where did they live? A hallway closet indoors is easier on a machine than an open carport or a damp garage a few blocks from the ocean.
- Any repairs? A replaced pump or belt isn't a bad sign. Repeated repairs to the same part are.
Price it against the risk
Machines with stainless tubs and simple mechanical controls have a reputation for durability, while newer high-efficiency models have more electronics. A used washer with a clean drum, quiet bearings and a working pump is often a sound buy. A dryer that heats well, tumbles quietly and has a clean lint path can run for years. A pair that only works if you ignore one or two of the warning signs above probably isn't a deal.
Installing them
Use new hoses for the washer and a new metal vent duct for the dryer. Level both machines and check the venting and gas connection. For garage laundry areas, our garage laundry setup guide covers hookups, outlets and floor slope.
If something shows up after you get them home, such as a leak, a dryer that doesn't heat, or a washer that won't spin, our washing machine repair and dryer technicians can diagnose the problem and put the repair cost in writing before any work starts, which helps you decide whether a used machine is worth putting money into.
Rule of thumb: if the seller won't let you see either machine run, keep looking.